Lift-up rudder head

[Scott Gammon]

My new-to-me U20 came with what looks like a kick-up rudder head.  (see attahment below)

The pivot bushing looks like it's at the top rear of the rudder head

There's a black pin through a hole that presumably holds the rudder up, and a lower hole, below the pivot bushing, where I guess the black pin would go to hold the rudder down.  There's currently a bolt in that hole.

There's a Delrin spacer between the two side plates with two jam cleats on it?

Is this an actual U20 part?

If it is a U20 part, any ideas on how to rig the pull lines for the jam cleats?

I'm inclined to install it, but aluminum and stainless don't work together all that well, and there already seems to be some galvanic corrosion.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[Mike Rizza]

Do you have the actual rudder? My boat came with the same rudder in 1996.

[Mike Rizza]

I believe the lower hole with bolt is the pivot point and the upper hole is for tiller. Black pin is a shear pin to hold rudder down and is suppose to shear if you hit something. I actually still have some spares. In the kicked up position it was a little hairy o control.

[Scott Gammon]

Upon further examination I can see how the lower hole is the pivot point - thanks for correcting me.

Attached below is the rudder as it is presently mounted on the boat.  Unfortunately, the way it is currently set-up, the tiller cannot be lifted when moving from side to side when tacking as the tiller interferes with the top front edge of the rudder.  Perhaps the tiller was mounted too close to the rudder head.


I would prefer to use the lifting set-up as I moor my U20 and would like a simple way to keep to the rudder out of the water when not in use.

The gap between the side plates on the lifting is about 1/4" wider than the rudder head, Any suggestions on how to take up the gap?   

Do you have any input on how the raise /lower control lines connect to the rudder?

I think I mentioned in my earlier post there are two jam cleats mounted to a delrin spacer.

[Mike Rizza]

It does look like the tiller is mounted too close to the standard rudder. I would be concerned about leaving the mock-up rudder in up position on a mooring. It would have a lot of leverage if a wave hit the blade. I’m looking to buy a kick up rudder if you decide it won’t work for you. Let me think some more on how the lifting lines were connected. I remember they were ere weird to use.

[Mike Rizza]

The top bolt that the tiller connects to should have two pulleys for the two lines from cleats. One line connected to back side of rudder and was the uphaul. Second line I think went down to front of rudder and was down haul line. I think the problem was the Downhaul line went around pivot bolt causing a lot of friction and a struggle to get rudder to go down. I found a company that will make a mock-up rudder that sticks straight up out of the water and has a gas strut to make it effortless

[Mike Rizza]

Do you realize the standard rudder will not fit on the kickup head. I believe you,have to have the rudder modified or a new rudder made. Anymore luck with rigging it?

[Scott Gammon]

I've almost arrived at that conclusion this evening.  Both rudder and lift-up head will need some holes and bushings added, which might be more than I want to bite off over the summer.  Likely a better project for winter.

Thanks so much for your input.

[Mike Rizza]

Maybe we can discuss on the phone.

[Mike Rizza]

https://store.ruddercraft.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=182_131&product_id=862
Check out this site, they have a slick design if you need rudder to come completely out of the water for mooring. Mike